Abruzzo Strong and Gentle
Italy is a country in which every region, city or even village can boast centuries of fascinating history, splendid natural backdrops and remarkable architecture and culture. Everyone knows of Venice’s gondolas, Milan’s fashion weeks, Rome’s millenary beauty and Naples vivacity, but there are other areas of the Belpaese that deserve much more recognition.
The peninsula is well-known for its natural contrasts. From the majestic, snow-capped peaks of the Alps, across rolling vineyard covered hills to dazzling blue Mediterranean seas. Italy enjoys a full range of geographic and climatic features that few other places possess. One unlikely region encompasses this incredible diversity more than any other.
The region is Abruzzo.
The peninsula is well-known for its natural contrasts. From the majestic, snow-capped peaks of the Alps, across rolling vineyard covered hills to dazzling blue Mediterranean seas. Italy enjoys a full range of geographic and climatic features that few other places possess. One unlikely region encompasses this incredible diversity more than any other.
The region is Abruzzo.
GEOGRAPHY AND MORPHOLOGY
Nestled between the Apennines and the central Adriatic Sea, this criminally underrated region proves that good things do come in small sizes. Although only 10 831,84 km2 (about the size of Connecticut) Abruzzo contains an environmental and topographical diversity that few other regions in the world can challenge.
It has been estimated that up to 75% of Europe’s animal and plant species are safeguarded throughout the parks, mountain ranges and 130 km of pristine coastline of the region. These include the last substantial population of brown bears in Western Europe, as well as extant populations of golden eagles and Apennine deer, chamois and wolves.
With almost 40% of the territory being designated as protected or as a national park (the highest percentage in Europe), the whole area is basically a giant natural reserve. Geographically the region has intense and extreme features, noted as being the most “alpine” region outside of the actual Alps and making it extremely popular, albeit more with Italians than with foreigners, for hiking, biking and trailing. Abruzzo also has a number of nationally renowned skiing resorts. Ovindoli and Roccaraso both near L’Aquila are two of the most frequented. A particularity you won’t get in too many other places, is the possibility (on a freakishly clear day) to see the sea while skiing!
The Apennines reach their highest point in Abruzzo. The Sirente-Velino (2487 mt), Majella (2793 mt) and of course the Gran Sasso D’Italia (2914 mt) are the highest and most ascended massifs in the entire mountain range. All three of these imposing peaks are surrounded by their respective breath-taking national parks. As a last testament to the region’s incredible topographic diversity, the Calderone; Europe’s most southern glacier is also located here.
The region is almost entirely mountainous, morphing to less drastic but still striking hilly terrain moving eastwards toward the sea, which changes from the more sandy and pebbly beaches in the provinces of Teramo and Pescara, to more rocky and untamed beaches towards Chieti. The remaining 1% of arable flatland of the whole region is known as the Fucino plain. Offering spectacular views surrounded by mountains and hills, the area serves as a reminder of how rugged Abruzzo actually is.
These varied features also created the conditions for some of the construction of some of the most awe-inspiring towns and villages, commonly perched in prominent and almost unreachable defensive positions. A remnant of times where the position of a settlement would mean its survival against invaders. Each of the many villages of Abruzzo have their own distinct festivities, dialects, lore and legends and of course culinary traditions (goes without saying that this is very important in Italy).
Despite its size in fact, Abruzzo’s villages are a common sight in the “borghi più belli D’Italia” a celebrated list, much like the Michelin star guide but instead of eateries this famed catalogue ranks the most attractive small towns, villages and hamlets in the country. With 23 entries, Abruzzo comes in third surpassing big players such as Tuscany, Veneto and Sicily.
Nestled between the Apennines and the central Adriatic Sea, this criminally underrated region proves that good things do come in small sizes. Although only 10 831,84 km2 (about the size of Connecticut) Abruzzo contains an environmental and topographical diversity that few other regions in the world can challenge.
It has been estimated that up to 75% of Europe’s animal and plant species are safeguarded throughout the parks, mountain ranges and 130 km of pristine coastline of the region. These include the last substantial population of brown bears in Western Europe, as well as extant populations of golden eagles and Apennine deer, chamois and wolves.
With almost 40% of the territory being designated as protected or as a national park (the highest percentage in Europe), the whole area is basically a giant natural reserve. Geographically the region has intense and extreme features, noted as being the most “alpine” region outside of the actual Alps and making it extremely popular, albeit more with Italians than with foreigners, for hiking, biking and trailing. Abruzzo also has a number of nationally renowned skiing resorts. Ovindoli and Roccaraso both near L’Aquila are two of the most frequented. A particularity you won’t get in too many other places, is the possibility (on a freakishly clear day) to see the sea while skiing!
The Apennines reach their highest point in Abruzzo. The Sirente-Velino (2487 mt), Majella (2793 mt) and of course the Gran Sasso D’Italia (2914 mt) are the highest and most ascended massifs in the entire mountain range. All three of these imposing peaks are surrounded by their respective breath-taking national parks. As a last testament to the region’s incredible topographic diversity, the Calderone; Europe’s most southern glacier is also located here.
The region is almost entirely mountainous, morphing to less drastic but still striking hilly terrain moving eastwards toward the sea, which changes from the more sandy and pebbly beaches in the provinces of Teramo and Pescara, to more rocky and untamed beaches towards Chieti. The remaining 1% of arable flatland of the whole region is known as the Fucino plain. Offering spectacular views surrounded by mountains and hills, the area serves as a reminder of how rugged Abruzzo actually is.
These varied features also created the conditions for some of the construction of some of the most awe-inspiring towns and villages, commonly perched in prominent and almost unreachable defensive positions. A remnant of times where the position of a settlement would mean its survival against invaders. Each of the many villages of Abruzzo have their own distinct festivities, dialects, lore and legends and of course culinary traditions (goes without saying that this is very important in Italy).
Despite its size in fact, Abruzzo’s villages are a common sight in the “borghi più belli D’Italia” a celebrated list, much like the Michelin star guide but instead of eateries this famed catalogue ranks the most attractive small towns, villages and hamlets in the country. With 23 entries, Abruzzo comes in third surpassing big players such as Tuscany, Veneto and Sicily.
CITIES, TOWNS AND VILLAGES
On a regional level Abruzzo is divided in four districts or provinces and their respective main cities. We start with L’Aquila, literally “The Eagle” the capital or “capoluogo” of the region. L’Aquila and its surrounding province constitute most of the inland mountainous territory with no access to the sea. This is compensated by the very aesthetically pleasing wonders of the Apennine. Renowned mountain localities include: Campo Imperatore, Campo Felice, the Marsican mountain range and lake Campotosto are just a few. The province is known as a wild and untamed land of deep valleys and precipitous highlands, linking with the isolated gorges of northern Lazio (a quick reminder that Rome is only about two hours by car from L’Aquila).
L’Aquila itself is a striking city, built in 1254 (quite late for an Italian city) by uniting a series of 99 castles in the region to herald to one settlement, L’Aquila encompasses all that Abruzzo could represent in a single city. At 721 mt, overlooked by the Gran Sasso, its position is already prominent enough, coupled with exquisite examples of both medieval and baroque architecture showing its past as one of the Kingdom of Naples most important cities. A particularity of the city was its initial landscaping as an exact copy of Jerusalem. Though the memory and effects of the terrible 2009 earthquake are still agonisingly present, tourism to the city and province is booming. Visitors flock to both to discover the city’s beauty as well as the surrounding unbeatable natural sights.
The province of L’Aquila also has some of the most recognisable and stunning towns and villages (second only to the province of Perugia in the list of most beautiful hamlets of Italy. Other vital centres include Sulmona, with its unbeatable position at the confluence of the Aterno and Sangro valleys famous for being the birthplace of confetti sweets. The medieval town of Avezzano and the perfectly preserved mountain towns of Scanno, Pescocostanzo, San Stefano Sessanio, Capestrano, Tagliacozzo and Calascia are just a few of gorgeous villages on a list that is simply too numerous.
On a regional level Abruzzo is divided in four districts or provinces and their respective main cities. We start with L’Aquila, literally “The Eagle” the capital or “capoluogo” of the region. L’Aquila and its surrounding province constitute most of the inland mountainous territory with no access to the sea. This is compensated by the very aesthetically pleasing wonders of the Apennine. Renowned mountain localities include: Campo Imperatore, Campo Felice, the Marsican mountain range and lake Campotosto are just a few. The province is known as a wild and untamed land of deep valleys and precipitous highlands, linking with the isolated gorges of northern Lazio (a quick reminder that Rome is only about two hours by car from L’Aquila).
L’Aquila itself is a striking city, built in 1254 (quite late for an Italian city) by uniting a series of 99 castles in the region to herald to one settlement, L’Aquila encompasses all that Abruzzo could represent in a single city. At 721 mt, overlooked by the Gran Sasso, its position is already prominent enough, coupled with exquisite examples of both medieval and baroque architecture showing its past as one of the Kingdom of Naples most important cities. A particularity of the city was its initial landscaping as an exact copy of Jerusalem. Though the memory and effects of the terrible 2009 earthquake are still agonisingly present, tourism to the city and province is booming. Visitors flock to both to discover the city’s beauty as well as the surrounding unbeatable natural sights.
The province of L’Aquila also has some of the most recognisable and stunning towns and villages (second only to the province of Perugia in the list of most beautiful hamlets of Italy. Other vital centres include Sulmona, with its unbeatable position at the confluence of the Aterno and Sangro valleys famous for being the birthplace of confetti sweets. The medieval town of Avezzano and the perfectly preserved mountain towns of Scanno, Pescocostanzo, San Stefano Sessanio, Capestrano, Tagliacozzo and Calascia are just a few of gorgeous villages on a list that is simply too numerous.
Following L’Aquila, we have Chieti, a picturesque town perched on a gentle hill. The surrounding province is a mix of mountainous, hilly and coastal. The Majella massif imposes on the western portion of the province. At the foothills of the mountain we find Casoli, first of the Aventino-Medio-Sangro mountain communes. Instituted by the Italian government to protect and preserve mountainside villages in the Apennine region (the only such denomination outside of the Alps). Casoli is a charming town posted on a symmetrical hill at the confluence of the Aventino river. The town is famed for its massive castle; the “Castello Mascantonio”, this impressive citadel has been towering over the town and its environs in its present-day form since 1455. It is well known that the great poet Gabriele D’Annunzio used to sojourn inside the fortress.
The Serranella and Sant’Angelo lakes are suggestive locations located between Casoli and Gessopalena another remarkable village, built next to the so called “Morgia” a daunting natural calcareous formation. The two lakes are very popular with bird enthusiasts as they are inhabited by rare species of kingfishers, swans, storks and herons that are seldom found elsewhere in Europe. Other villages in the Chieti province include Guardiagrele, a mountain commune which is seat of the Majella national park. Roccascalegna, known for breath-taking views atop the castle or “rocca” that gives the village its name. Fara San Martino, a splendid medieval hamlet known throughout Italy with the hefty title of “Pasta capital of the nation” due to the De Cecco pasta company being founded here (do not mention Barilla here). The town is also very popular with rock climbers and excursionists thanks to its spectacular position in a gorge under the omnipresent Majella massif.
Pennapiedimonte, known as Abruzzo’s balcony, exhibits some of the most extreme features for a mountain town, built into the rock at a height varying from 669 mt to a dizzying 2676 mt. An extensive network of stone cut roads, only walkable by foot lead to the higher sections of the village. Lanciano is an important centre for wine and olive oil production in the Val di Sangro (also an important religious pilgrimage hub) while the nationally famed towns of Francavilla, Ortona and Vasto enjoy their position both as seaside localities and architectural and historic beacons.
A frequently visited stretch of Chieti province’s coast is the so-called “Costa dei Trabocchi”. From Ortona to San Salvo the sandy beaches give way to more untamed inlets and rocky bays where local fishermen continue the age old tradition of fishing inside the “trabocchi”, massive fishing stations mounted on stilts and wooden walkways jutting out into the sea over the coves and reefs of the most uneven and untamed stretch of the Adriatic.
The Serranella and Sant’Angelo lakes are suggestive locations located between Casoli and Gessopalena another remarkable village, built next to the so called “Morgia” a daunting natural calcareous formation. The two lakes are very popular with bird enthusiasts as they are inhabited by rare species of kingfishers, swans, storks and herons that are seldom found elsewhere in Europe. Other villages in the Chieti province include Guardiagrele, a mountain commune which is seat of the Majella national park. Roccascalegna, known for breath-taking views atop the castle or “rocca” that gives the village its name. Fara San Martino, a splendid medieval hamlet known throughout Italy with the hefty title of “Pasta capital of the nation” due to the De Cecco pasta company being founded here (do not mention Barilla here). The town is also very popular with rock climbers and excursionists thanks to its spectacular position in a gorge under the omnipresent Majella massif.
Pennapiedimonte, known as Abruzzo’s balcony, exhibits some of the most extreme features for a mountain town, built into the rock at a height varying from 669 mt to a dizzying 2676 mt. An extensive network of stone cut roads, only walkable by foot lead to the higher sections of the village. Lanciano is an important centre for wine and olive oil production in the Val di Sangro (also an important religious pilgrimage hub) while the nationally famed towns of Francavilla, Ortona and Vasto enjoy their position both as seaside localities and architectural and historic beacons.
A frequently visited stretch of Chieti province’s coast is the so-called “Costa dei Trabocchi”. From Ortona to San Salvo the sandy beaches give way to more untamed inlets and rocky bays where local fishermen continue the age old tradition of fishing inside the “trabocchi”, massive fishing stations mounted on stilts and wooden walkways jutting out into the sea over the coves and reefs of the most uneven and untamed stretch of the Adriatic.
Lastly, we have the provinces of Teramo and Pescara. If the whole region of Abruzzo can seem underrated even to a small degree, then Teramo takes the underappreciation cake. This provincial capital has one of the most intriguing city layouts in all of Italy. The duomo of Santa Maria Assunta was elevated to Basilica status in 1955, it is an example of southern Italian gothic, Romanesque with Moorish influences that has no counterparts elsewhere. Teramo’s so-called “Borgo Medievale” despite its name is an extravagant succession of edifices built in a curious blend of medieval inspired rococo and baroque which again has little in common with any other structures in the world.
The province of Teramo, like the other districts is squashed on one side by the Apennine massifs (the Gran Sasso in Teramo’s case) and the Adriatic, where Giulianova and Roseto degli Abruzzi are the most visited balneary localities. Teramo province also contains Castelli, a town immersed in untamed nature which is recognised as the main starting point for excursions on the Gran Sasso. Pietracamela and Isola del Gran Sasso are two other stunning towns located in the Gran Sasso national park while Mosciano Sant’Angelo is famed for its remote surroundings visitable by horseback that were used as set-pieces in a number of Sergio Leone’s “Spaghetti Westerns”.
The province of Teramo, like the other districts is squashed on one side by the Apennine massifs (the Gran Sasso in Teramo’s case) and the Adriatic, where Giulianova and Roseto degli Abruzzi are the most visited balneary localities. Teramo province also contains Castelli, a town immersed in untamed nature which is recognised as the main starting point for excursions on the Gran Sasso. Pietracamela and Isola del Gran Sasso are two other stunning towns located in the Gran Sasso national park while Mosciano Sant’Angelo is famed for its remote surroundings visitable by horseback that were used as set-pieces in a number of Sergio Leone’s “Spaghetti Westerns”.
Pescara is famed as the most coastal province. The city is also the most populous in the region, the only serviced by an international airport (The Abruzzo Airport recently booming in popularity with low-cost flights) and the only settlement directly on the sea. Famed as the birthplace of Gabriele D’Annunzio: Writer, artist, poet turned military commander. The man’s many eccentricities became the stuff of legend and he was hugely popular both in Italy and abroad. Pescara is seen as both the economic, nightlife and cultural hub of Abruzzo. Flocks of tourists visit for strolls on the city’s beach and shopping tours under the instantly recognisable art nouveau style palaces. The commune of Montesilvano is the provinces most visited maritime community, but like the other provinces its mountainous range is just as rugged and unabashedly stunning, with too many localities to name. In any case most other tourist activity is centred around the medieval hillside towns such as Città Sant’Angelo, Penne, Spoltore, Brittoli, Manoppello, Popoli, Alanno Caramanico Terme and in general the Pescara side of the Majella national park, which in winter completely changes to a wild and eerily beautiful alpine region.
HISTORY CONCLUDING NOTES
Although located smack dab in the centre of Italy. Abruzzo has more in common historically, culturally and linguistically with the south of Italy, or Mezzogiorno as it still sometimes called. During Pre-Roman times, the region was inhabited by belligerent Samnite and Sabine tribes that resisted Roman colonization viciously, before eventually being conquered and becoming known as the birthplace of Ovid, one of the greatest Latin poets. During Medieval times this affinity with southern Italy grew as the region found itself for centuries under the control of the Kingdom of Naples, more precisely from 1282 to 1816 and then as part of the Kingdom of Two Sicily’s, from 1816 to 1861 before finally becoming part of the newly created Kingdom of Italy.
A more recent consequence of being more connected to the vicissitudes of Southern Italy was a diaspora to the new world (North America but also Latin America, Australia and other parts of Europe) that saw many Abruzzesi leave their home for a better life and bringing the culture of this fierce and gentle land wherever they ended up. Notable people with Abruzzese ancestry includes the immensely popular entertainer Dean Martin, the undefeated heavyweight champion and sporting icon Rocky Marciano and the great novelist and film maker John Fante, famed for his stories and insights in immigrant life in 19th century America.
Although located smack dab in the centre of Italy. Abruzzo has more in common historically, culturally and linguistically with the south of Italy, or Mezzogiorno as it still sometimes called. During Pre-Roman times, the region was inhabited by belligerent Samnite and Sabine tribes that resisted Roman colonization viciously, before eventually being conquered and becoming known as the birthplace of Ovid, one of the greatest Latin poets. During Medieval times this affinity with southern Italy grew as the region found itself for centuries under the control of the Kingdom of Naples, more precisely from 1282 to 1816 and then as part of the Kingdom of Two Sicily’s, from 1816 to 1861 before finally becoming part of the newly created Kingdom of Italy.
A more recent consequence of being more connected to the vicissitudes of Southern Italy was a diaspora to the new world (North America but also Latin America, Australia and other parts of Europe) that saw many Abruzzesi leave their home for a better life and bringing the culture of this fierce and gentle land wherever they ended up. Notable people with Abruzzese ancestry includes the immensely popular entertainer Dean Martin, the undefeated heavyweight champion and sporting icon Rocky Marciano and the great novelist and film maker John Fante, famed for his stories and insights in immigrant life in 19th century America.
So as one can see, for such a small region, Abruzzo packs quite a punch. In a country on a continent with so much to do and see, here’s a place that really stands out. The region is also an optimal place to explore other parts of central and southern Italy, with the closest airports apart from the Abruzzo Airport in Pescara being in Rome and Ancona.
Lazio, Marche, Molise border the region, but also Umbria, Apulia and Tuscany although not directly bordering are not far off. In any case Abruzzo on it’s on own is a worthy contender, there are not many places where one can eat an “arrosticino” on a mountain for breakfast and be fishing on a “trabocco” by lunch.
Lazio, Marche, Molise border the region, but also Umbria, Apulia and Tuscany although not directly bordering are not far off. In any case Abruzzo on it’s on own is a worthy contender, there are not many places where one can eat an “arrosticino” on a mountain for breakfast and be fishing on a “trabocco” by lunch.